For the girl’s
last day we hit up the Colca Canyon. We
were all very excited about our last big adventure sans one thing, the canyon is
about 4 hours away from Arequipa, so we’d have be up at 2:30am for the bus…
I’d be lying
if I said I remembered the whole day, because I was going on no sleep and much
of the day was spent in a bus. I know we
drove about 3 hours to Chivay, and then another hour or so to the Cruz del
Condor where you get a great view of the canyon and the birds flying. We also stopped many time along the way at
various villages with different activities:
The tour was
pretty good, by far the highlight was watching the condors fly around, and we were
lucky to see them as it doesn’t always happen. Towards the end,
Savannah, Sahar and I all felt like typically terrible American tourist:
speaking only in loud English, being late for the bus,
sleeping most of the bus ride, and being so tired at times to even leave the bus. Overall it was a
bit rough, but the condors made the whole trip worth it.
Cusco,
it's pretty amazing and annoying all the same breadth. Here, you get solicited for things to spend your money more per meter walked than any other place I've been in South America. I guess it’s
what you get when you mix rich tourists with third world homeless. Anyways, it gets to be just
like advertisements, you just start to block them out and say ‘no
gracias,’ without even listening or looking. But for some reason, the flyer for
the free entrance to the chocolate museum caught our attention.
It turned
out to be a great decision, as they have a ‘create your own chocolate bar’
workshop deal, where you start with the chocolate beans and end up with your
own chocolate to eat. It was well worth
the 66 soles.
We went
through the basic process: the cacao
tree, the fermentation process (which is super important and has to take places
only hours after the pods have been picked), the tossing of the beans (basically
mixing over heat until the beans start popping), and the removing of the skins
to reveal just the cocoa beans. We all
tried eating the beans before and after tossing – both were pretty bitter, but we learned
if you eat enough of the uncooked beans you begin to hallucinated. Then we got out the mortar and pestle (my
specialty) for a little bean grinding competition. We all had 2 minutes to turn the cocoa from
beans into a smooth paste, the way the Mayans used to do it. After 2 minutes of pretty hard work our pastes were judged, and I won (nbd...) the prize of a bag
of cocoa tea. It tastes a lot like
chocolate – delicious!
Then we used our
hard earned chocolate paste to make two kinds of hot chocolate. The first was the method of the ancient
Mayans, just cocoa paste, boiling water, and cayenne pepper… as predicted, it
was terrible. Then we made an
American version, cocoa paste, cinnamon, cloves, warm milk, and lots of
sugar. The latter was much much better.
Finally, we
saw the final steps to making chocolate: mixing the paste with sugar for 48
hours until it is perfectly smooth, then pouring into chocolate bars. This was the best part, as we got to pick out
any mold we wanted for our chocolate and then add flavors: mint,
coffee beans, nuts, coconut, whatever we wanted really. By the end of the 2 hour workshop we all felt
terrible like a kid after Halloween.
Having an empty stomach that was filled with pounds of chocolate was not
a great choice before dinner.
The
finished chocolate went in the refrigerator for an hour before it was ours to take home. The consensus was clear: the tour –
great, the chocolate – amazing!
PS. The girls
took all the photos of this event, so I’ll add them once I get them…
Another trip
to the airport and another person joins the crew, our friend Sahar (who
originally planned to travel to Peru with Savannah) arrived to join the
fun. She could only take a week off
work, so it would be an aggressive week seeing the sights of Peru. Some of the activities: hitting up Machu
Picchu (though I would skip it this time while Savannah hit it up the second
time in as many days), Cusco, overnight bus, Arequipa, Colca Canyon…. I think I’ll sleep at the end of the week.
Cusco is the
ancient Inca capital (not Machu Picchu – who knew?), and it’s also one of the
more famous cities in all of South America.
It has a bit of a strange feel that took me a while to get used to. There’s nothing inherently special about Cusco,
it’s just the closest big city to a world famous set of ruins, and as such, Cusco
gets so much tourist money it doesn’t know what to do with itself. Like, ‘why is the largest Starbucks I’ve ever
seen here (and yes Savannah and I want there for coffee),’ it didn’t make a ton
of sense. But it makes the town an
absolute dream, super clean, tons of great restaurants, and things just run
better than your typical third world city. There is the annoyance of everyone claiming
to be Pablo Picasso and selling the same cheap art for one sol, getting offered
an endless stream of terrible (so I was told) massages, and markets galore
selling the same junk in every shop. One
massive market literally had 50 venders selling the same exact stuff.
The food
deserves its own section. One of my buddies
from Australia told me, ‘we spend 9 days in Cusco and did nothing but eat…’
well I spent 10 (not including the Salkantay trek) and he was absolutely
right! Savannah
and I found a couple amazing places and just kept eating at them. Jake’s Café, Los Perros, and Inka Grill were
among the favorites, and trust me, the food was better than I used to eat back
home.
The main
event of Savannah and my trip together was the Salkantay trek, so when the time
came to begin we were eager to get going.
However, even being super excited, the 4am wakeup call by our guide David
still felt insanely early. It would take several more hours of sleep in the van and arriving at our
last town in civilization to have breakfast that we’d be awake enough to meet
everyone. The cast of characters:
EB – Art
designer for sets on movies / commercials from Dallas. She has a really cool job and a pretty
interesting life. She’s climbed to Everest
base camp, Mt. Kilimanjaro, seen the Taj Mahal. She also carries around a doll head she found in Amsterdam (Bob), who she takes picture of at each destination. It sounded very strange
at first.
Lyn –
Retired salesman from Salt Lake City. He
loved to tell a lot of cheesy jokes and had a lot of one liners to add to the
group which at times got annoying. But
he was generally a good time, even when he fell and hit his head on a rock on
day two, and he continually kept the group updated on elevations and mileage
with his GPS.
Craig –
Retired teacher also from Salt Lake City.
He was soft spoken but also really funny when he did speak. He was my favorite of the three (and Savannah
said that I was his favorite too – aw shucks…).
David (our
guide) – If Craig liked me best, then David decidedly liked Savannah best, like
in the morning he’d usually get her up and give her the instruction for the
day, not even mentioning me. But he was
also a really good guide, nice, friendly, good pace, interesting things to add,
just a top notch guide and probably the best I’ve had in South America.
And then it
happened… It’s strange how sickness hits, you don’t really want to admit it to
yourself, but you know something is wrong and you just hope to ignore it. I had my first toilet trouble in the
breakfast bathroom and instantly took an antibiotic for travels diarrhea
fearing the worst. The next 30 minutes
of windy roads decidedly didn’t help.
Then the hiking began.
It was a fun
start to the trek, Savannah and I trying to navigate through all the puddles and
mud, us being the only two not wearing waterproof hiking boots, while also
getting a nice groove going on the trail.
Everything seemed to have fixed itself since breakfast, with the only noticeable
trouble being the sand fly bites that were drawing blood.
However, at
snack time, I could only eat a banana, and that was mostly out of obligation to
the stop. I began to get nervous that after
hours of hiking I felt no ounce of hunger, and even refused Savannah’s last
cracker. Something was clearly wrong…
At lunch I
had to poop again, running up into the hills for privacy and necessity. I could only manage a couple of bites of
soup, bread, and white rice. I felt
worse than at snack time and not hungry at all.
The stuffed avocado with peppers and onions was painful to miss.
The rest of the
day was dreadful, stomach turning from mild discomfort to severe pain. It was a pretty long first day having started
at 4am, and when we got to camp I could do little more than lay in the tent and
focus all my attention on my bowel moments.
Savannah was an absolute angel and took great care of me, rubbing my
back, feeding me sips of Gatorade, and trying to get me to eat (which in way
was going to happen). The cooks were also
nice enough to make me a special tea for sickness, which I used to wash down a
handful of medication. Eastern and Western
medicine working together, I just prayed my nurse wasn’t overzealous with her
assessment of the effectiveness of my antibiotics.
I skipped
dinner all together, choosing instead to put on all my clothes inside my
sleeping bag to fend off the onslaught of cold shivers I was feeling. I heard that dinner was amazing and the cooks
busted out a flaming banana for desert which sounded incredible. But to be honest, in that moment, I just
wanted my stomach to stop hurting… and to stop pooping.
We camped that
night between two towering peaks above, the Salkantay and Humantay
mountains. We’d do the Salkantay pass
tomorrow.
Day 2 – 24km
I woke with
the roosters feeling better, but that quickly turned to running to that bathroom and only a
single scoop of eggs accompanied by a slice of bread for breakfast. We were on the trail by half six as it continued
to rain from the previous night.
The first 3
hours were all uphill until we reached Salkantay pass, 15,000ft. Craig made a good point, ‘all the things
about day 2 I thought would be difficult – elevation and steep terrain – were
no problem, it was only the weather.’ The
rain, wind, and elevation made it extremely cold most of the day.
I continued to
feel pretty terrible and bring up the rear of the group. Savannah was really great and would try and
wait for me, even at a snail’s pace, we still ended up with a sizable distance
between the two of us, but she’d still stop and wait for me in the rain.
We discussed
perspective and how back home when one thing goes wrong it can be upsetting, but when you’ve been walking in the rain for
hours on end it feels like the greatest relief in the world when it lets up for
just a moment.
We also
talked about how the simplest solution is often the most elegant. For example, Savannah wore a $100 rain jacket
from REI while I wore a free poncho I’d received as a gift from a friend. Who do you think stayed the driest? (trick
quickest – the guy wearing a trash bag….).
Or when after lunch we put plastic bags over our feet to keep them dry
and they worked amazingly. Just imagine
how much water proof socks would cost (if they even exist).
Several
people called me a champ on that day, and I’ll be honest that with the sickness,
weather, and lack of nourishment, I was pretty proud of making to the top of
that peak.
Once at the top,
we made a sacrifice just as the Inca’s used to make. We each had brought a rock up to the top,
along with 3 coca leaves (which represent the most important animals to the
Incan people: puma, condor, snake) for a sacrifice.
We left the leaves under the rock as we made a wish.
After a few
hours decent, we stopped for lunch in a hut with a chorus or meowing cats to
keep us company. I was finally greeted with a long lost feeling – hunger, one that I thought I’d never feel again. I managed to get my first real food of the
trip: all my soup, salad, and about half a plate of food.
Sadly the
day was only about half done, mileage wise, and still about 3 hours left on the
trail. We all felt defeated, and it was
near agony to put back on all our wet gear and reenter the storm after just
getting warm and full. The second half
was most flat and downhill, the one kicker – deep mud. Great…
The trail quickly
turned from normal mud to loose dirt, which after hours of rain was just
awful. Actually it was quite fun at
first, but when we rolled into camp hours later, we were all over that whole
walking thing. Luckily ours tents were
all setup under the comfort of a roof.
We all
cleaned our things as best we could, and put on a heavenly feeling change of dry clothes
before my first tea time and dinner with the group. Lyn had brought wine and we finished that off
before crashing early, deserving, after a long hard day.
Day 3 – 14km (easy)
If the theme
of day 2 was struggle, day 3 was recovery.
We slept in (well 7am), and only had to hike on a flat trail until
lunch, and our next camp. It was
glorious.
That morning
I also ate my first breakfast and amazingly felt great all day (odd how much
food helps while hiking – who knew). We
opted for walking on the dirt road instead of the true trail to avoid
landslides. We did have to cross one
section where a previous landslide had occurred. There was lots of water and it was super deep
mud. No cars or even horses could get
across.
That night
the campsite was much more modern: next to a general store, picnic tables, and a
shower with about 2 minutes of hot water (but still – HOT WATER!). It was luxurious. We sat around drinking and playing cards
until dinner and nightfall. Then we
choked down a nightcap pisco shot by candlelight before turning in for the night.
Day 4 – 12km
Today we
made a great call, skipping the first 7 miles of pure mud to sleep in and ride
in a warm bus to the better trail.
After a much
more normal start to the day, breakfast at eight and a bit of sunshine, we got
going, riding in the bus along the river for about two hours til we
reached the railroad tracks, and our trek continued.
The trail
was very mild today, flat and easy with little rain until we reached Aguas
Calientes and our hostel for the night.
An actual hot shower and a real bed was an amazing change of pace.
As a group
we hit up the hot springs, to share a few drinks and soak our battered
bodies. I was feeling much more myself,
nearing 110% (my norm), while Savannah was starting to head the other
direction. After feeling great for
nearly the whole first four days, her right knee was starting to act up, and
give her serious trouble on steps, mostly downhill though. The schedule the whole next day, however, was
exploring the thousands of steps of Machu Picchu. Timing for our struggles was not on our side
during this trip.
We hit
dinner as a group as well, and then to bed early, as hours later we’d be
walking up to Machu Picchu.
Day 5 – Machu Picchu
Up bright an
early once again, this time before 4am, in order to walk the forty minutes
of flat followed by forty-five up stairs in order to beat the first buses to
Machu Picchu. Walking
the start of the day with flashlights and through fog, we made it just minutes
before the crowds began to form.
Here are a
few of the shots that I got before the crowds and fog rolled in:
David then
took us on a 2-hour tour of the ruins, here are the best parts that I remember:
Cusco (Inca
capital) looks like a puma. Machu Picchu
(no one knows its purpose) is like a condor.
Bingham
(from Yale University) – discovered the site in 1911 by accident. He took all the artifacts (though no treasure
was found) back to the US, but I guess we’re slowly giving them back to Peru.
We saw
where the Inca Trail comes into Machu Picchu, the trail to the sun gate, and the temple for
the sun – where the sunrise shines through the windows at summer and winter
solstices.
We learned
how the Inca’s used to cut stones to perfect proportions and shapes (along the
rock’s natural cracks) to make stones that fit perfectly together.
We saw an
ancient sundial and learned of the film crew whose camera fell and broke off a
corner. The Peruvian who authorized the crew
was sent to prison as punishment for the damage.
We had the rest
of the afternoon to explore, but after several more hours, Sav and I were just
exhausted and returned to Aguas Calientes to relax in a café and wait for our
train and then bus back to Cusco that night.
We were
utterly exhausted when our journey finally came to a close, but it was well
worth the fatigue, for such an amazing experience.
I'd been really
good about my eating: no salads, no drinks with ice, avoiding all water... but my Aussie friends from the start of the trip said that everyone eventually get’s sick. I thought I'd been diligent enough to avoid it, but clearly I let me guard down, just for a second I forgot about the dangers of South American cuisine, and right at the start of a 5-day, 85km trek, it hit me...
Savannah and
my first adventure in Peru was the Sacred Valley Tour.
Most people know of Machu Picchu but the areas surrounding Cusco are
littered with other ancient ruins, so we decided to take an all day tour to
check them out. Much of the tour was
spent on the bus with a less than excellent guide, but the ruins at Pisaq,
Ollantaytambo, and the cloth makers at Chinchero were pretty cool, have a look:
Overlooking the Sacred Valley
Our boring tour guide at Pisaq
Pisaq ruins
A monster!
An even worse monster
A stick bug
The Pisco Sour in the drink of course in these parts
Lucky Friday
the 13th turned out to be an amazing day, as I got to
pickup Savannah from the airport and begin a magical 2 week stint, us
traveling together. It’s going to be
great, to finally spend time with a girl that I've missed from back home, and to
have someone to hangout with all the time.
It certainly gets old having to make a quick friend just to have someone
to hangout with for an afternoon. A few photos of our first few days:
Back in
Colombia, after the Lost City tour, I got a free t-shirt that I was absolutely
stoked about. While traveling, a new
shirt equals a clean shirt, need I say more.
However, after the first wash the shirt lost about an inch off the
bottom, the second wash lost an additional inch, and so on. This pattern has continued for each subsequent
wash, and now the shirt shows my belly button and it’s getting tougher and
tougher to wear in public.
As this
trend doesn’t seem to be slowing, I’d like to pose a question (using the dichotomy paradox
– which says in order to reach your destination you must first reach the
half-way point, and then half of a half, and then half of a half of a half…) can
a shirt really disappear? I’ll report back…
I spent my
last few days in Bolivia hitting up Copacabana and the Island of the Sun on Lake Titicaca, before
heading over to Peru for the last month of my trip. I spend my first day in town hiking around the watching the massive Easter celebration, South Americans are extremely religious (like fireworks going off every night, religious). Here are a few of the pictures from the hikes:
View of Copacabana
After a 2 hour boat ride, I was at the north end of the island
